Dinner at Resorts World’s Strip-side Italian restaurant Brezza is always a delicious experience. But a full meal of Chef Nicole Brisson’s house-made pastas, seafood and incredible dry-aged steaks, followed perhaps by dessert, can also be pretty filling. By that point, you may be tempted to ask for the check, just as Beverage Director Wayne Herman wheels the restaurant’s digestif cart to your table, packed with exotic-looking bottles of amari and grappa.
Think twice before you send Herman on his way without at least a conversation about the contents of that cart. There’s a reason Italians have been ending their meals with these spirits for generations.
Grappa and amari are traditionally served as digestivi, alcoholic drinks enjoyed after a meal. They’re also two categories that can be intimidating to Americans who have little experience with them.
Grappa, in particular, has a reputation.
“As Americans, we know it as jet fuel for the most part,” Herman says. “But there’s a lot of very good grappas.”
Grappa Beyond the Jet Fuel
Grappa is made by distilling the remnants of the winemaking process. After grapes are pressed for their juice, the remaining skins, seeds and other solids (known collectively as pomace) can be distilled into the high-proof Italian spirit.
Traditional grappa is clear. But it can also be aged in oak, which adds color and changes its character considerably.
“That oak will really kind of take off some of the alcohol, some of that high-octane tone, and kind of smooth it out,” Herman recently explained to the Food and Loathing podcast. “It becomes more of a whiskey drinker’s grappa.”
Brezza’s cart offers several styles, including traditional blended grappas, single-varietal expressions and oak-aged versions. Herman suggests the latter as a good entry point for whiskey drinkers. Fans of vodka or other unaged spirits may be more comfortable starting with a traditional clear grappa.
For an even gentler introduction, Herman suggests caffè corretto, espresso served with a little grappa.
Amaro Offers a Wider World of Flavors
Amaro is the singular form of the Italian word; order more than one, and you’re drinking amari.
Unlike grappa, amaro is not defined by one particular distillate. Most begin with a neutral spirit, although wine and other bases can also be used. Producers then introduce combinations of herbs, roots, bark, fruit and other botanicals, creating an enormous range of flavors.
Where an amaro originates can provide some clues about what to expect.
Herman says southern Italian varieties often reflect the citrus that grows there. As an example, he points to Amara, a Sicilian amaro made with blood oranges grown around Mount Etna, producing a lighter, citrus-forward style.
In the North, the profile can become more herbal. Fernet-Branca, produced in Milan, is an intensely bitter, herbal and minty example that developed its own following among bartenders.
Herman recalls a time when Fernet was known locally as “the bartender’s handshake.”
“If they liked you, you’re getting a shot of Fernet, whether you wanted it or not,” he says.
For those looking for a less aggressive introduction, one of Herman’s favorites is Amaro Nonino Quintessentia, which he describes as having a more approachable citrus character.
Brezza has partnered with the Nonino family (who originally made grappa before expanding into amaro) to offer Nonino Quintessentia on tap. Herman says that, based on conversations with Francesca Nonino, he believes Brezza is currently the only place in the United States serving it that way.
Do Digestivi Really Aid Digestion?
The Italian tradition of ending a meal with grappa or amaro is about more than simply squeezing in another drink. These spirits have long been consumed as digestivi, with generations of enthusiasts claiming they can help settle the stomach after a large meal.
Science isn’t convinced.
Research has not established that drinking a digestif improves digestion, and some studies suggest alcohol can actually slow the rate at which food leaves the stomach. But that hasn’t diminished the drinks’ place in Italian dining culture.
Herman is willing to concede the science while remaining enthusiastic about his own experience.
“Every night I would finish with amari, I would feel so much better for it,” he says of a recent trip to Italy. “Now there’s no scientific research behind it, but it makes me feel better.”
For Herman, the more important part of the tradition may be what happens around the glass.
“You finish off the meal, you would have your dessert, then you have your coffee, and then you would need something to kind of finish off dinner with,” he says. “It’s always this very kind of social time. You’re sitting, you’re talking, you’re still enjoying.”
Don’t Be Afraid to Ask
With so many unfamiliar bottles and such a broad range of flavors, Herman doesn’t expect newcomers to know what to order from Brezza’s cart.
His advice is simple.
“Dip your toe in the water, ask a few questions,” he says.
For curious guests, the restaurant can sometimes create a small flight, moving from a lighter selection through something more assertive. That allows diners to discover their own preferences while learning the stories behind the bottles.
Prices don’t necessarily make experimentation prohibitive. Herman says most of Brezza’s amari are under $20. Traditional grappas generally fall into a similar range, although oak aging can send prices considerably higher, particularly for older expressions.
Most importantly, there’s no need to become an expert before giving either category a try. The entire point of the cart is having someone there who can help find the right bottle.
And when it’s finally time to raise the glass, Herman says there’s no need to overthink that part either.
He offers a simple Italian toast.
“Chin chin.”
Hear our full conversation with Wayne Herman on the August 7 episode of the Food and Loathing podcast.
